Choosing the right merino weight for year-round layering

Merino wool is sold in a range of weights and the labelling is not always consistent between makers. One brand's 'lightweight' is another's 'mid-weight', and the difference matters when you are trying to build a wardrobe that works across eight or nine months of the year rather than just the depths of winter.

What gauge actually means ¶

Gauge refers to the number of stitches per inch in a knitted fabric. A higher gauge number means more stitches per inch, which means a finer, lighter fabric. A lower gauge number means fewer, larger stitches and a heavier, more textured fabric.

The rollneck we stock is a 12-gauge knit. That sits in the middle of the range: heavier than a fine-gauge summer knit (which would be 16 or 18 gauge) but lighter than a chunky winter knit (7 or 9 gauge). In practice, 12-gauge merino is warm enough for a cool autumn day and light enough to wear under a jacket without bulk.

The case for a single mid-weight piece ¶

A lot of people buy a thin merino for summer and a thick one for winter and end up with two pieces that each get worn for about six weeks. A single mid-weight piece, worn over a shirt in autumn and under a coat in winter, covers a much longer season.

The limitation is that a mid-weight knit is not the right choice for very cold weather on its own. If you are regularly outside in January in the north of England, you will want something heavier over the top. But as a base layer or a standalone piece for the shoulder seasons, a 12-gauge merino is hard to beat for versatility.

What to look for in the fabric ¶

The micron count of the wool fibre determines how soft the knit feels against the skin. Merino wool is generally between 15 and 24 microns. Below 18 microns is considered superfine and will feel soft against most skin without irritation. Above 20 microns and some people will find it scratchy at the collar and cuffs.

The rollneck we stock is made from wool in the 17-18 micron range, which is why it sits comfortably at the neck without a shirt underneath. If you have particularly sensitive skin, it is worth asking about the micron count before you buy any merino piece, regardless of where you buy it.

The slate rollneck is on the floor now. If you want to feel the weight before committing, come in and we will pull your size.